Writer M.L. Abbott based this independent review on her 7-night Western Caribbean cruise departing from Galveston, Texas.

Grand Princess has a lot of “wow” about her. She’s a towering presence with 18 decks and a futuristic profile. The glass-walled Skywalkers Nightclub is suspended above the stern the full width of the ship and is accessed via a glass-enclosed ramp with a moving sidewalk -- think of a saucy spoiler on the back of a sexy car. It’s not the only hot spot, though. Movies run day and night on a huge outdoor screen as bright as those in Times Square. Inside, Grand Princess befits her name, with classy furnishings and warm colors but nary a bit of stuffiness. For sophisticates who seek nonstop action, she’s a city that hardly sleeps. But she has quiet nooks to pamper those who seek solitude at sea.

Why Grand Princess?

• Personal Choice Cruising: It’s all about choices, giving passengers more options and more freedom to make the cruise fit their whims day to day, rather than channeling everyone into a regimented formula.
• Entertain me: Evenings pack an expansive lineup of entertainment, with outdoor movies, events in the theater and two show lounges, and live music/programs in additional lounges. More varied dinnertime options have opened the timetable for more evening events, and Princess’s shows are tops.
• The Princess touch: You get an upscale experience at mass-market prices, and while Grand Princess is ultra-modern, she also has old-world gentility.

Who should go
Mom, dad, the kids, grandparents… all can come aboard and find something to do without being together all the time. It’s nirvana for movie buffs with film choices daily, outdoors or indoors. No need to choose between a spa vacation and a cruise -- this one gives you both with its nice oasis for indulgence. And for those who can’t leave the brain on vacation all week, the ScholarShip@Sea program has classes for novices and pros to expand computer skills.

Who shouldn’t go
The ship handles the traffic flow well, but she carries 2,600-3,200 passengers and at times you will encounter lines and congestion. Anyone with mobility limitations should note: She’s 951 feet long, so despite her several banks of elevators, there can be long walks.

Hits and misses

• Don’t miss: Movies Under the Stars -- catch a popular flick on the outdoor screen. Lounge chairs are arranged for viewing with special covers and blankets. Yes, there’s popcorn, and you can order drinks.
• Best part of the ship: The airy Conservatory is a lanai-like balcony above the Calypso Pool, with palm trees, mosaic tile, flared columns, and a retractable glass dome. Doors open onto the deck, affording sea views on both sides while you relax in a cushiony chair or lounge.
• Best experience: An evening at Sabatini’s Trattoria is a multicourse indulgence of expertly prepared dishes.
• Best shipboard activities: Don’t miss the outstanding Broadway-style shows by the Grand Princess troupe, or the midnight Champagne & Bubbles Waterfall Party in the atrium, with its hold-your-breath building of a pyramid of glasses.
• Needs improvement: There are plenty of elevators, but their timing is erratic and they’re sometimes elusive, leaving passengers to dash from port to starboard trying to catch one. At the Horizon Court buffet, both the grouping of food selections and traffic flow could be better organized.
• Activities to skip: The port and shopping talk starts with useful consumer tips but becomes mainly a promotion for shops on the line’s approved list. Art auctions -- do we need so many? The fun seems to be waning from these auctions.

How to meet the captain
Don’t count on this. Best chance: The captain’s welcome party, which offers complimentary drinks in the three-deck atrium. Stake a place on the stairs or along the balcony rails to see the cruise director introduce the captain and top officers. Afterward, the captain sometimes lingers around the Promenade Lounge and it’s okay to greet him. He usually welcomes the line’s “most-traveled passengers” (150 or more days) at the Captain’s Circle luncheon.

Heard on the deck: “If anyone says they’re bored on here, they’re not paying attention.”

Dining is all about freedom, with choices to please a mixed crowd from traditionalists to restaurant hoppers to those who prefer buffets and never having to dress up. When booking, pick between the traditional (a set time and place for dinner) and “Personal Choice Anytime Dining” (dinner when, where, and with whom you like). Anytime Dining is much like you would do at home: Call for a reservation if you know where you want to eat, or show up at the dining room when you wish. You may have a wait but it’s usually not long. The ship truly has 24-hour dining, with the casual Horizon Buffet open around the clock. Overall the food is above-average quality, if a little bland, but service is attentive and well-paced and food in the dining rooms comes hot and attractively presented.

Main dining rooms (Botticelli, Da Vinci, and Michelangelo)
All three dining rooms are one level with side windows, seat about 500, and create a warm dining atmosphere with wall murals of artwork to pay homage to their Italian namesakes. Botticelli is for those who choose fixed seating, usually set at 6 and 8:15 PM, and you dine at the same table with the same servers every night. Designated for Anytime Dining, Da Vinci and Michelangelo are open 5:30-10 PM. Dining room menus are the same, with fare that changes daily and standby favorites such as Caesar salad, steak, and salmon. Among best choices was a roasted rack of pork prepared with four spices and glazed with brown sugar and dark rum. Prime rib was good and fish usually tasty. For dieters: Cantaloupe sorbet proved a real treat. Da Vinci serves breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea, with open seating at specified dining hours.

Sabatini’s Trattoria
Sabatini’s is a great “evening out” treat, and a bargain at the $20 surcharge. Like the Energizer Bunny, food keeps coming. You’re nearly full after the hot and cold antipasti and you still have the soup, pizza, pasta, entrée, and dessert to come. Fortunately, the antipasti is served in grazing portions, among them shrimp, marinated artichokes, the best roasted eggplant ever, steamed black mussels, and baked cheese. Entrées include a choice of several seafoods, chicken, veal chop, or cannelloni. Dessert? Chocoholics (and “Love Boat” fans) will swoon over the decadent “Princess Love Boat Dream,” but the tiramisu is divine. Forget about breakfast the next morning; you'll still be full. Note: Make reservations early to get the day and time desired.

Sterling Steakhouse
Beef lovers will get their fill here, with a menu that has steaks from 12 to 22 ounces (and filet mignons at 8 and 10 ounces). Steaks are grilled to order and tender. The menu surprise: A Brie quesadilla appetizer with diced papaya. Sterling is open evenings only by reservation. Extra charge: $15 per person.

Other dining options

• Horizon Court: No matter when you want a bite, Horizon Court is open. Daytime service is augmented by a bistro from 11 PM until 4 AM, and then hot continental breakfast starts. Buffet lines are open on both sides at busiest times. Browse first to survey the offerings -- food groups, such as veggies and main dishes, may be in more than one place. Among a wide selection of cold and cooked items, the food is fair, though not always hot and some items are quite bland. Mini omelets are an unusual option, though they’re not individually prepared. There’s usually a carved meat, and watch for sushi at times. Despite extensive seating, you may need to share a table (many people treat this as a lounge to gaze out the windows).
• Trident Grill and Poseidon’s Pizzeria: The grill serves up freshly prepared hamburgers, hot dogs, grilled chicken, and French fries. At Poseidon’s, chefs toss pizza dough in the air and constantly pop fresh ones in the oven. Both places are poolside and operate 11 AM to 10 PM, so you can order here for your movie night.
• I Scream Ice Cream Sundae Bar: Soothe that sweet tooth with all kinds of goodies, from cola floats to hot fudge sundaes. Prices are $1.50 to $3.75. But you can get free soft ice cream in the Horizon Court in the afternoons, and order real ice cream as a dessert in the restaurants.
• Room service: There’s 24-hour service from a limited menu (look in the ship information folder on the desk in your cabin). Like coffee to wake up? It usually comes quickly.

Best dining

• Dish: Try the grilled Chilean sea bass with lemon and Pinot Grigio sauce at Sabatini’s.
• Dessert: Mmmm, how difficult to choose between the melt-in-your-mouth tiramisu at Sabatini’s and the delicate Grand Marnier cake in the main dining rooms.
• Restaurant: Sabatini’s, the Italian specialty restaurant ($20 surcharge), is a fine-dining experience in a romantic setting. It’s an evening to savor, so allow at least 90 minutes.
• Food seminar: Go for the popular Princess Grapevine wine seminar, sampling five wines. Cost: $7.50, but $5 can go toward purchase of a bottle of wine anytime, and you keep the pretty dessert wine glass. There’s also a popular culinary demonstration.

How to…

• Get a table for two: No problem for those on the Anytime Dining option as you simply request a table for two when you make a reservation, or at the dining room door. If you choose the fixed-seating option, give your preference at booking or see the maître d’ upon arrival.
• Celebrate a birthday/anniversary: Waiters are happy to present a cake, and serenade you, if you arrange ahead of time. For guests on Anytime Dining, it’s better to reserve a table (and cake) ahead on the particular day you wish (see the maître d’). You also will find balloons on your door if you note the celebration when you fill out the passenger information form before boarding.
• Change seating: On Anytime Dining, if you don’t like the location of the table offered, request another spot. To change a table assignment on fixed seating, see the maître d’ before the evening dinner.
• Dress for formal night: You will have company if you pack the strapless ball gowns, swishy cocktail dresses, and tuxes, though dressy black pants outfits and dark suits are traditional favorites. Not everyone joins the parade of finery -- shirts and slacks are as formal as some passengers choose.
• Dress for casual night: The dress code says “smart casual” on all nights other than formal, and this invites a wide interpretation. Jacket and tie are optional, so shirts and slacks and casual coordinated pants outfits go everywhere, but some passengers stick by their jeans and T-shirts.

Tips:

• A Princess tradition, the Champagne & Bubbles Waterfall Party is a festive gathering on a formal evening as the maître d’ and staff create a tall pyramid of glasses and pour the bubbly from the top. There’s complimentary champagne as passengers throw streamers from the atrium balconies and dining room staff join in the dancing.
• On Anytime Dining in Da Vinci or Michelangelo, if you find wait staff you particularly like, request to be seated in their area each evening. Thus, you can enhance your experience with waiters who get to know your personal tastes.

Heard on the deck (from a young woman to the cook at the outdoor grill): “Will you toast my buns?”
After a minute, both laughed.

Standard cabins are comfortable, though only about 168 square feet each. Classy touches enhance a warm blue-and-cream décor. Honey-colored wood adorns walls and furnishings. A wall mirror is framed with padded fabric coordinated with the bedspread, long drapes, and valance. In standard rooms, a corner cabinet houses a mini refrigerator, and the television sits on a shelf above it (watch your head!). A wall-mounted hair dryer is conveniently placed by the desk/dresser. There are drawers for storage, bedside tables with lights, and a small glass-topped table. Oddly, bed linens sometimes feel crispy new and other times are worn thin and pilling. Closet space is a bit tight, with one full-length hanging area across from small shelves and a mini-safe. The bathroom sink has good counter space and three small shelves complemented with spa products. The shower stall is somewhat snug.

More than 700 cabins have balconies, but the sizes of balconies vary. Many balcony cabins have the same interior space as standard oceanview cabins -- it’s the balcony that gets you above 200 square feet. To get more bedroom space, you need to go to a suite.

Cabins for guests with disabilities
Grand Princess has 26 wheelchair-accessible cabins, with inside, oceanview, and balcony choices convenient to elevators. Balcony cabins have removable ramps for access to the balcony.

Tips:

• Most passenger cabin decks have self-service Laundromats with coin-operated washers, dryers, and soap dispensers.
• Built-in lights on bedside tables have very low-wattage bulbs. Bring a book light for better reading in bed.
• Balconies are tiered, so on some decks they extend out farther. In some areas people on top decks can look down onto balconies, so check your privacy level.
• The big suites are on the stern with great ocean views. Two family suites offer connecting cabins for eight.
• Want a robe? Request one from the cabin steward. You also can fill out a form to get your choice of complimentary fresh fruit delivered to your room daily.

The “wow” factor kicks in strong with a bounty of onboard happenings from dawn until the wee hours. Three show venues, a disco, 12 lounges/bars, a variety of shopping, a large spa, outdoor movies day and night, a putting green -- the list goes on. The three-deck atrium lobby acts as a crossroads leading to dining, shops, lounges, and the theater. You may have to “graze” the nighttime entertainment to catch it all, or make some tough choices. An extensive roster of computer and digital photography courses can keep you on the go in the daytime, but hey, this is vacation time. It’s okay to do nothing but laze in a lounge and enjoy the sea views.

Bars, lounges, and casino
Of the options, four are most distinctive. Explorers Lounge evokes the romanticism of travel to Africa. Murals of Egypt and Morocco adorn the promenade by the lounge, a favorite spot for reading and gazing out large windows. Though the lounge is large (with dance floor and stage for cabaret acts), it has an intimate area with an African safari wall mural beneath a stained-glass dome. At the smaller Wheelhouse Bar, leather sofas, wood paneling, and old-ship art and memorabilia give it a warm, clubby atmosphere. The unique Skywalkers Nightclub has some great private nooks by windows for tête-à-têtes. In the Atlantis Casino, if you can tear yourself away from the slots and tables, check out the 3-D holograms of fish in the sea.

Heard on the deck (from a woman, in praise of a visiting pianist who drew crowds to a small bar each night): “He was responsible for my meeting someone when I didn’t expect to meet anyone.”

Swimming pools
What a pick of pools. In all there are five pools and nine hot tubs, including two spas often overlooked on Sports Deck by the Oasis Bar. Neptune’s Pool is highlighted by a big screen playing movies and music videos. For quieter pool time, visit Calypso Pool beneath the glass dome, the adult-only Terrace Pool on the stern, or the lap pool with a current in the tranquil Lotus Spa lounge area. The kiddies have their own Fun Zone splash pool and the teens have their own Off Limits sun lounge area with a hot tub. There’s a variety of cushioned loungers around all pools. Towels are also available by all pools, and deck attendants are attentive about tidying up.

Shows
Princess Cruises creates and staffs its own productions -- high-quality professional shows with talented performers. The main venue is the two-level Princess Theater, one of the best at sea with hardly any obstructed views from 748 seats. Try to sit in the box seats to either side of the stage (access them from halls outside Snookers Bar). Some productions are done in the smaller Vista Lounge, which also hosts movies and visiting entertainers.

Is that Spiderman in the middle of the Caribbean? Yes, movie buffs can cool off in the pool, soak in the hot tub, or laze on lounges and watch flicks on an outdoor LED screen day or night. Grand Princess is the second Princess ship to get the 300-square-foot screen with state-of-the-art sound mounted high amidships. Movies show continuously throughout the day. After a break in the evening, the pool deck area is set up for night movies, usually with two showings. Seats are on a first-come, first-served basis. Note to sports fans: The screen may have special events, such as Monday Night Football, if the satellite feed is available.

Shore excursions
Princess sends shore excursion information with your booking documents. You can pre-book excursions on the Princess Web site or wait until you board. On Western Caribbean itineraries, there are approximately 90 excursions costing from $24 to $350 each. Getting 2,600 or more passengers off the ship can take time, particularly when the ship can’t dock at the port but drops anchor and uses tenders to ferry people to the pier. Usually tour tickets specify a time and place to meet in one of the large lounges, where shore excursion staff organizes everyone by tours and then directs departures. Those who aren’t taking tours report to another area to get tender tickets and wait for their numbers to be called. Once all tour and tender tickets have been called to depart, you can board any tender to go ashore, and the boats run continuously.

Heard on the deck (from a person talking about the handling of passengers getting off to take shore excursions): “They are really organized.”

Weddings and vow renewals
If you’ve dreamed of a wedding at sea, you can do it on Grand Princess, which has the first dedicated chapel for nautical weddings. Princess is the only line on which a captain can officially conduct ceremonies anywhere at sea. In the 36-seat Hearts & Mind Chapel, you can have flowers, music, and even cameras to beam the live ceremony to friends and family at home. You can also have your ceremony in port, though the captain does not perform these. Vow renewals can be arranged aboard the ship (contact the Purser’s Desk) and are usually performed by the captain.

Looking for…

• Quietest spot: Outdoors, head for the extra comfy lounges at the spa pool or the little nooks on Sun and Sports Decks aft. Daytime inside, relax in Skywalkers Nightclub, with floor-to-ceiling windows, or the cozy Wheelhouse Bar.
• Liveliest spot: Skywalkers Nightclub has a late-night pulsating disco scene. The Promenade Bar is a happening spot when entertaining pianist Danny Mills is playing.
• Most popular activity: So many people turn out for the culinary demonstration that it’s held in the Princess Theater. It’s followed by a galley tour, but beware: The galley tour line is extremely long (but you do get to sample desserts). Also, on Caribbean itineraries, the Tropical Island Night party on aft Decks 12, 14, 15, and 16 draws big crowds swinging to live music.
• Best view: For big views, Skywalkers Nightclub is suspended 150 feet above water. For outside views, try the balconies above the aft pool under Skywalkers.
• Best show: Shake, Rattle, & Roll -- the production cast as great names of the past belt out hits everyone loves.
• Best drink: A mojito -- a rum drink reminiscent of a mint julep. One or two and you’re ready to rumba or cha-cha-cha.

Tips:

• Note the time of last tender departure from shore so you’re there on time. The ship won’t wait for you.
• If several ships are in the harbor, be sure you’re getting on the tender to your ship.
• When going ashore, take photo identification AND your cruise card. You may need to show both to return.
• The Princess Links putting green is hard to find. Take the stairs behind the big outdoor movie screen or enter via an unmarked door on the forward end of the Conservatory.
• The Internet café is on Grand Plaza Deck 5. If it’s closed for classes, use computers in the nearby library. Access is 35¢ per minute.
• A Backstage Tour gives a fun inside look at the theater productions.
• Computer classes in the ScholarShip@Sea program include sessions on learning Excel and PowerPoint programs and making your own web pages.
• If you’re married and sailing on Valentine’s Day, you can join a group vow renewal on the deck.

Spa and salon
Die-hard workout fans and spa enthusiasts -- this ship is for you. The spa, gym, and aerobics room are large, encompassing most of the bow, and have good views. You don’t have to make a spa appointment to enjoy this area, which includes a wind-protected lap pool (with current) and two hot tubs surrounded by slatted wood chairs with big cushions. The Lotus Spa has tranquil waiting areas and treatments from $49 for a couple’s massage class to $242 for a full-body massage for two. An aromaflex massage ($109) combines work on your upper back, neck, and shoulders with reflexology on your feet, touching points that can relax your whole body. The masseuse can adjust the pressure for a gentle touch or to reach deeper tissue. It’s a good way to unwind if you’ve had a hectic work week before your cruise. The spa staff does push their products, but it’s not always a laundry list of “you-must-have” items. They may recommend one thing for a specific treatment, and while products are expensive, they’re high quality.

Fitness areas
The workout room has about 40 pieces of equipment including treadmills, cycle machines, weights, and a variety of machines for arms, chest, abs, and legs. There’s usually no waiting. Two energetic fitness directors host seminars and classes including group cycling, “abs to die for,” step express, yoga, and Pilates. Some classes have $10 fees while others are free. For $33, you can purchase a body analysis and fitness consultation.

Tips:

• A jogging track laps the top deck forward, but it’s a short circle. There’s also a full promenade on Deck 7, but it narrows in places and has steps to Deck 8 to go around the bow. Still, it’s a nice walk, and benches and lockers make it reminiscent of old liners.
• Port-day specials reduce the prices of some spa treatments, and watch the daily newsletter for other specials. Some products may be offered at reduced prices toward the end of the cruise.
• Onboard snorkeling/diving instructors give a complimentary group snorkeling lesson, and snorkeling gear is available for rent or sale. Instructors will also give scuba reviews and advice about shore excursions.

Shopaholics have a better-than-normal variety of enticements in the boutiques clustered on Decks 6 and 7 around the atrium. With frequent live piano music, panoramic elevators, and places to get a latte or martini, it feels like an upscale mall. Calypso Cove has a large selection of quality logo wear, kids’ toys, and sundries, while Facets sells fine jewelry and collectibles such as Swarovski, Murano, and Lladró. Meridian Bay offers casual and dress clothing and accessories, while Allure has numerous fragrances and cosmetics. And Limelight sells gemstones and costume jewelry.

Tip: Before leaving home, check your cosmetic prices and compare to see if there are savings here among the wide selection of Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Lancôme duty-free prices.

Heard on the deck (from a husband to his wife on the last day of the cruise): “Only one more shopping day -- sounds like Christmas.”

Kids go right to the top on Grand Princess, the location of the Fun Zone for younger cruisers and Off Limits for teens. Activities are normally broken into three groupings: Ages 3-7, 8-12, and 13-17. The Fun Zone has a spacious inside playroom with games, crafts, and computers, with a private outdoor play area with splash pool one deck up. Teens have their own secluded Off Limits gathering spot and above it a private sun deck with lounges and a hot tub. Another activity area is the Cyberstore, adjacent to the extensive Voyage of Discovery video arcade, with more than 20 games. Evening fun includes pizza dinners, pajama parties, and a kids’ disco party in Skywalkers. On holidays and in summer, there may be 500 children onboard. Other times, maybe 50.

Tip: The Fun Zone has an open house on embarkation day -- a good time for the family to check out the activities.

In winters 2004 and 2005, Grand Princess sails from Galveston, Texas on seven-night Western Caribbean itineraries, calling at Cozumel and Costa Maya, Mexico; Belize City, Belize; and Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands. In summer 2005, she sails three different 12-night Mediterranean cruises from Venice or Rome, stopping at varying ports of call in Greece, Turkey, Italy, France, and Croatia.

Heard on the deck (from a passenger gazing from the deck down into the clear, deep blue sea): “The water looks like someone put blue dye in it.”

• Cruise line - Princess
• Ship name - Grand Princess
• Type of cruise - Elegant Resort
• Total cabins - 1300
• Private balcony cabins - 710
• Decks - 14
• Total crew - 1200
• Passenger capacity - 2600
• Ship size - Large
• Officers nationality - British/Italian
• Year entered service - 1998
• Registry - Bermuda
• Tonnage - 109,000
• Ship length - 951